10/08/21 – 10/11/21 – Four Days at Solomon’s Island, MD (including a road trip to Mount Vernon, Virginia!)

Day 393 – 396

On Friday, 10/08/21, we picked up the rental car we’d reserved at Enterprise, where we were assigned a bright blue Nissan Kicks to drive. We stopped at CVS for supplies and our annual flu vaccinations, then went to Bank of America to pick up another allotment of $5 bills (marina tip money), then Steve dropped me off at Hobby Lobby for a fix and to pick-up Christmas crafting supplies. Errands completed, we enjoyed lunch at Kingfisher’s on Solomon’s Island, before heading back to Legacy’s tie-up on K Dock at Zahniser’s Marina.

Where we enjoyed lunch on Friday afternoon, 10/08/21, in Solomon’s Island, MD.

Unfortunately that evening, I began to feel poorly again, and we realized I’d probably made a mistake getting my flu shot while I was still suffering the effects of bronchitis. By the time I went to bed, I began to worry I might be in for yet another trip to the local ER! 🙁 The next morning I felt better, but still really weak and tired, so we put our planned road-trip to George Washington’s Mount Vernon off a day, and instead stayed in Solomon’s Island for dinner at the well-reviewed Bugeye Grill.

Our choice for dinner on Saturday, 10/09/21, even though I felt less than 100%…

On Sunday morning, 10/10/21, I felt much improved, so we drove our little Nissan Kicks a bit over an hour, down to Mount Vernon, VA. As with most of our stops on this journey, I fell in love with the beautiful hills and valleys surrounding Mount Vernon, and the grounds were equally exquisite. We picked a nice, fall day for our trip, so the weather only enhanced the romance of our visit. Since we arrived at lunch time, we stopped in for brunch at the Mount Vernon Inn Restaurant. Much to my delight, I learned that George Washington had an avid interest in gardening and botany. I don’t recall ever learning this fact in school about the father of our country! A large portion of the property near the main house was walled off and specifically allotted to Washington’s own garden, which once served to feed the residents and staff of Mount Vernon. Several enormous trees still gracing the Mount Vernon estate are said to have been planted by George Washington himself, which means they are centuries old.

Entrance gate into Mount Vernon historical landmark.
Where we enjoyed an “historical” lunch on Sunday, 10/10/21, prior to touring the grounds and house at Mount Vernon.
The mural on the wall of the restaurant, directly above our table.
We learned that Mount Vernon actually fell into disrepair after Washington’s death in 1799, but was rescued and refurbished by the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association, which opened it to the public for tours in 1860. Now, 162 years later, Mount Vernon is the most visited historic home in America.
Even though the house was captivating, I was surprised by its modesty, especially compared to the elaborate mansions we’d toured earlier on this trip. But at the time of its construction, this house was ten times the size of the average home in colonial Virginia.
The surrounding grounds are still bucolic and kept well-manicured…
The Mount Vernon landmark encompasses about 200 acres of land.
Mount Vernon’s onsite orchard.
Not surprisingly, I was enthralled with the lovely and extensive gardens at Mount Vernon, much of which are walled-off and directly adjacent to the house.
We’ve all heard of Washington apples… Well, apparently there are also Washington pomegranates! 😉
Scenes of Mount Vernon’s gardens…
George Washington traveled extensively, and is reputed to have carried specimens of plants from all over the world back to be planted in his gardens at Mount Vernon. (Obviously, US customs were more lax back in the day!)
This Tulip Poplar tree at Mount Vernon is said to have been planted by George Washington, himself. AMAZING.
While obviously awhile after Washington’s time, this massive Cedar of Lebanon tree is estimated to have been planted next to the Washingtons’ grave site in 1899.

A large group of us toured the mansion and surrounding out-buildings. Originally inheriting the property and the meager beginnings of the house from his father, George Washington greatly expanded the house and grounds, deeming it the perfect location, situated high on a hill, overlooking panoramic views of the mighty Potomac River. Surprisingly, tour guests are allowed to actually touch the original wooden banisters along the stairways of the mansion, which put Steve and I in mind that we were touching the very same banisters once touched by the very first president of the United States, not to mention the many dignitaries of the day who visited Washington and his family.

The main house is flanked by outbuildings on both sides.
This lovely portico connects the main house to several of Mount Vernon’s outbuildings.
Mount Vernon’s kitchen is located in an outbuilding not attached to the main house, both for safety and comfort concerns.
Standing in line for entry into the main house.
Mount Vernon’s parlor. Much of the home’s furnishings are said to be original, refurbished pieces, or exact replicas of that which was used by Washington and his family.
Bright paint colors on the walls and elaborately-decorated ceilings were very much in style during the 18th and 19th centuries, and were an indication of the wealth of a home’s inhabitant. Here is Mount Vernon’s dining room.
Martha Washington’s bedroom.
Surprisingly enough, this small, ordinary desk, accessories, and surrounding office are what the father of our country used, when working from Mount Vernon!
As with all expensive homes constructed in the 18th century, any woodworking was totally hand-carved.
George Washington’s bedroom, and the actual bed he is said to have died in, at the age of 67. On December 12, 1799, George Washington rode horseback around his estate in cold, rainy conditions, wearing his damp clothing for most of that day and night. He developed a sore throat during the night, and by the next evening had become gravely more ill. At the time, blood-letting was believed to remove toxins from the blood, so by the time Washington died on December 14th, he had reputedly lost 40% of his blood. Washington knew his death was impending and made sure his household had his will in hand, and gave them his own burial instructions just hours before his demise. Though no definitive cause of death has ever been reached, today’s doctors believe Washington died from acute epiglottitis, and not from the blood-letting.
A portion of Washington’s home library. George was a self-taught man, obtaining most of his later knowledge from the massive number of books he read during his life, rather than attending colleges or universities like his counterparts.
This painting and the one below are said to have actually hung in the parlor of Mount Vernon, during the time the Washingtons lived there.
An iconic painting of General George Washington with his white war horse named Blueskin. (Washington’s most beloved horse was a chestnut stallion named Nelson.) The above painting is entitled Washington at Verplanck’s Point, was painted by artist, John Trumbull, in 1790, and currently hangs in Mount Vernon’s parlor.
This interior door is original to George Washington’s time.
The facade of Mount Vernon’s exterior was created using a process called rustication, which made regular pine siding boards appear to be sandstone.
Indeed, Mount Vernon’s placement, overlooking the mighty Potomac River, is located in a prime location.
View from Mount Vernon’s expansive back porch.

Under some duress, Steve agreed to join me on the walk down the hill to George and Martha Washington’s tomb and back. Walking down was pleasant, and the views were lovely, but the very steep incline encountered on the return was another matter entirely. Once we caught our breaths from the climb, we were routed through an impressive onsite museum and the obligatory gift shop, before heading back to our car. We spent almost three hours exploring, learning, and thoroughly enjoying this very special monument, and once again I felt grateful that such a place had been saved, restored, maintained, and is still readily available for all of us to enjoy today and in the future.

The grand but somber grave site for George and Martha Washington (her tomb is located just inside the gate on the left-hand side) was specified by Washington in his will. During our tour, we learned that Washington’s will also stated that all of Mount Vernon’s slaves were to be freed upon his death, unless Martha survived him, in which case they were to be freed upon her death. Reportedly, Martha ultimately decided not to wait, freeing the slaves immediately, as she feared for her life, otherwise.
Inside the tasteful George Washington museum that now stands on the grounds of Mount Vernon.
A magnificent stained glass exhibit in the museum depicts the story of George Washington’s life.

On Monday, 10/11/21, our formerly beautiful weather gave way to clouds, mist, and chilly air. Steve returned our rental car to Enterprise while I stayed aboard and defrosted our tiny boat refrigerator – a multi-hour project.

Position: N 38° 19.807, W 76° 27.534

Total marina nights: 372

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

10/07/21 – Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina in Cambridge, MD, to Zahniser’s Marina in Solomon’s Island, MD

Day 392

Upon the dock master’s recommendation, we had made reservations at the Black Water Bakery in historic downtown Cambridge, and arrived promptly at 8:00 am on Thursday morning, 10/07/21. The walk over from the marina was pleasant, as the weather was sunny and not too cool. At first, we were the only diners in the small cafe, so we had the sociable manager’s full attention. After a delightful breakfast, we walked back to Legacy, threw off the lines and headed out into the Choptank River southwestward, toward today’s easy destination of Zahniser’s Marina in Solomon’s Island, MD, located on the opposite side of the Chesapeake Bay. We’d stopped at Solomon’s Island on the way up, but stayed at a different marina that time, so it was kind of like we were visiting a new place. 😉

Black Water Bakery had been highly recommended, so we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast there on Thursday, morning, 10/07/21, before leaving Cambridge, MD.
The Great Choptank Parish of the Christ Episcopal Church originated a long time ago!
Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina in the morning light on 10/07/21.
Legacy on the T-dock, at the end of Pier C at our marina in Cambridge, MD.

Our cruising waters were very calm, and as we motored along, I watched several cocky seagulls floating in the water nearby. Our loudly rumbling engines passed by them as closely as twenty feet, but those seagulls never batted an eye or ruffled a feather! 😉 They stared at us as we passed their little floating bodies, bobbing comically up and down as our wake hit them. They never even considered taking flight. This was their bay and we were just passing through it! 🙂 I needed no seasick meds on this day, as our waters remained serene with only a very light chop. The weather was partly cloudy with perfect temperatures.

We couldn’t have asked for smoother waters than those we experienced the morning of 10/07/21!
View of the bluffs at Drum Point, MD, heading into the Patuxent River off of the Chesapeake Bay.

We passed Port Republic and St. Leonard, MD, to our starboard, heading for the entrance into the now familiar Patuxent River, where Solomon’s Island is located. Passing the distinctive bluffs at Drum Point, MD, east of Lusby, we arrived smoothly at Zahniser’s Marina about 2:15 pm, tying up on Legacy’s port side to their K t-dock, as instructed.

Position: N 38° 19.807, W 76° 27.534

Distance traveled:  44 SM

Total distance traveled: 4946 SM

Total marina nights: 366

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

10/05/21 – 10/06/21 – Two Days in Cambridge, MD

Day 390 – 391

By Tuesday, 10/05/21, the copious meds I’d obtained from the ER in Chestertown, MD, began to work in earnest. Hallelujah! 🙂 After a leisurely morning aboard, we climbed off of Legacy at her tie-up at Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina, walked down the dock piers, and into downtown Cambridge proper. The air was humid and the temps were higher than normal, but the skies began to cloud-up early, which moderated the heat some.

Views of Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina, as storm clouds began to gather…

We walked through town, admiring the huge, stately Sycamore trees that lined the streets and graced the front yards of the many historic homes of Cambridge. We walked to Snapper’s Restaurant, on Commerce Street, as recommended the day before, by our harbor master. As we ate outside, but under cover, we saw that storms were popping up in the area. Of course we’d forgotten to bring our umbrellas, so we knew that was a sure sign we’d get rained on before we got back to our boat. 😐 After lunch, we walked back as quickly as we could, considering the distance was almost a mile. We did get sprinkled on, but thankfully made it onto the boat before the bottom fell out of the skies.

I was enchanted by these Spider Lilies (aka Surprise Lilies or Naked Ladies) that residents had planted along the streets in Cambridge. Fall is the time to shine for these lilies.
Some of the beautifully-restored, historic homes in downtown Cambridge, MD…
Views of where we dined al fresco on Tuesday afternoon, 10/05/21…

We further explored the sleepy streets of downtown Cambridge on Wednesday, 10/06/21, in better weather. I took my obligatory pictures of the area’s historic church buildings, before we stopped at highly-reviewed Carmela’s Cucina for an Italian late lunch/early dinner. Although signs inside the cozy little eatery advertised wines for sale, turns out we were there on the day before they received their weekly wine shipment, so the only wine available that day was a very sweet Moscato wine, which would not pair well with pizza, so we settled for water instead. Turns out the pizza was so delicious, we didn’t at all mind the absence of our afternoon cocktail. YUM!

Just like every other east coast town we’ve visited, Cambridge boasts its share of historic churches…
Obviously, Ironman was happening statewide, in Maryland – not just in Rock Hall!
Where we ate some of the tastiest pizza of this entire journey! 🙂
Although we were too full right after our meal, we couldn’t resist ordering several pieces of this Lemon Cello Cake to take back to the boat with us for later. It was delicious!
More views around Cambridge, MD…
SUCH gorgeous flowerbeds! (And in October…)

Position: N 38° 34.612, W 76° 04.326

Total marina nights: 367

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

10/04/21 – Rock Hall Landing Marina in Rock Hall, MD, to Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina in Cambridge, MD

Day 389

On Monday morning, 10/04/21, Legacy and crew left her tie at Rock Hall Landing Marina at 8:00 am. Our cruising conditions were blessed with sunny skies, moderate breezes, and only slightly choppy waters. We were headed for a marina in Cambridge, MD, today, with an estimated arrival time of about 2:00 pm. The further southward we progressed, the higher the number of white-caps became, which increased the rockiness of our cruise, so I was glad I’d taken a Dramamine that morning!

Leaving Rock Hall Landing Marina in Rock Hall, MD, on this lovely Monday morning, 10/04/21…

We slowly approached the familiar city of Annapolis, MD, and could see the expansive Chesapeake Bay Bridge looming up ahead of us, where we would soon pass back underneath it – only this time from north to south. I deemed the southern side of the CB Bridge, “the land of the sleeping giants”, because of all the massive freighters and container ships that seem to just be sleeping at anchor out in the Bay, not moving at all. The closer we got, the more of these giants appeared out of the thick haze suspended above the water.

Views of the impressive Chesapeake Bay Bridge, as we passed back underneath it, this time from north to south…
Views of the Chesapeake Bay’s many “sleeping giants” of the water…
As we passed the stern of this monster, I again tried to imagine exactly what it would be like to launch off the back of this freighter inside that tiny, orange rescue pod! 😐

Eventually, we passed by the entrance into the Eastern Bay, which is the route to St. Michael’s, MD. St. Michael’s is a place we both really enjoy, but we skipped it this time through, in lieu of seeing new places. We passed west of Poplar Island and Tilghman Island.

We turned east (to port) into the Choptank River, toward the waterfront towns of Oxford and Cambridge, MD. Just like many of the rivers that feed the Chesapeake Bay, the Choptank River is also very large, resembling a massive lake in places. We passed Bellevue and Oxford, MD, to port, and soon the towns of Trappe and Algonquin, MD, before coming to Cambridge, MD, on our starboard.

Waterfront homes along the Chesapeake Bay as we traveled southward…

A little ahead of schedule, we arrived at Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina, in Cambridge, MD, at 1:30 pm that day. Several very helpful (and talkative) dock masters directed us to a T-dock with a port-side tie. This marina had fixed docks with a two-foot tide. Could be an adventure climbing off and onto the boat here! This marina is located in a very pretty area, just adjacent to town, with lots of walk-able shops, restaurants, and pubs. The only downside to our boat placement was how very far away we were from the marina’s restroom facilities. Oh, well – more exercise for both of us!

Legacy, all “tucked-in” in her T-dock tie-up at Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina, in Cambridge, MD.
The Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina is also home to the area’s famous Choptank River Lighthouse. The current building is a faithful replica of an earlier beacon that guided sailing vessels up and down the Choptank River in Maryland.
The Choptank River is a major tributary of the Chesapeake Bay and the largest river on the Delmarva Peninsula. It’s mouth is located south of Eastern Bay, Cambridge, the county seat of Dorchester County. The Choptank River was as entwined with the history of slavery and freedom on the Eastern Shore as any plantation. Slaves arrived by boat for auction and left the dock in the hands of a new owner. Ironically, at wharves in this same river, black watermen played an important role in freedom’s network, bringing news, passing gossip, and occasionally whispering advice about the prospects for escape.
Sunset on our very first evening at Cambridge Yacht Basin Oasis Marina was an extra special treat, and its picture is First Prize Winner of this blog post! 🙂

Position: N 38° 34.612, W 76° 04.326

Distance traveled:  59 SM

Total distance traveled: 4902 SM

Total marina nights: 365

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

10/01/21 – 10/03/21 – Three Days at Rock Hall Landing Marina in Rock Hall, MD

Day 386 – 388

As early as possible on Friday morning, 10/01/21, once the marina office opened, Steve called the harbor master and asked if anyone could possibly drive us to and from the nearest ER, as my horrible bronchial spasm the night before had turned into yet another, full-blown sinus infection. My FIFTH one of this trip. The harbor master was extremely kind and actually gave us the keys to his brand new SUV, to drive ourselves to the nearest ER in neighboring Chestertown, MD, so I could receive treatment. The staff at the ER told me it sounds like I’d suffered a bronchial spasm the night before, and I now had bronchitis to go along with my sinus infection. UGH. They gave me a breathing treatment, took a chest x-ray to rule out pneumonia, prescribed more antibiotics, steroids, and cough meds. My allergies have really terrorized me on this journey of ours! 🙁

After stopping at the Walgreen’s up the street, we filled the gas-tank of the harbor master’s SUV and drove back to the marina, where I promptly changed back into my pajamas, took my meds, then crashed in bed to sleep for the rest of the day. Fortunately, we’d already planned to spend a couple of days in Rock Hall, which worked out well, since I was far too ill to perform any of my Gilligan duties, had we tried to travel. 🙁

The following day, I remained in bed, while Steve walked almost a mile to the Rock Hall grocery store, pulling our little blue cart behind him, returned to the boat with his purchases, then walked back over to the restaurant for lunch. By that evening, I was awake and feeling better, so I fixed one of my signature quiches for our dinner.

By Sunday morning, 10/03/21, I finally felt well enough to walk back over to Waterman’s for lunch, where I treated myself to a tasty feta and fruit salad, and Steve had another burger. We ate outside at the bar next to a couple who’d brought their beautiful, Golden Retriever puppy, named Rye, to lunch with them. He was the cutest, most well-behaved puppy I think I’ve ever seen. The whole time his owners ate their lunch, Rye laid calmly at their feet, softly squeaking the chew-toy he’d carried with him. Steve was relieved when those three eventually left, as he knew I was falling totally in love with that dog, and before long would be pestering him to adopt a puppy of our own! 😐

There was an Ironman Competition held at our marina this weekend! We saw many swimmers, bikers, and runners all around our boat and the entire area. After the dog couple at the bar left, we struck up a conversation with one of the Ironman competitors, who referred to himself as a cross-fitter. He very much looked and acted the part, and was obsessed with his hobby/lifestyle. We learned more about the Ironman Competition and cross-fit training from him than we’d ever even hoped to know! 😉

That night, and for many nights afterward, I slept up in the v-berth, because of my constant wheezing and loud, barking seal cough. 🙁 It was a bit cramped (I had to transfer all the junk off of the starboard mattress over to the port mattress, to make room for myself), but still comfortable. I was extremely thankful we’d decided to upgrade the v-berth mattresses right after we bought the boat!

Another view of Legacy on her wall tie-up at Rock Hall Landing Marina, in Rock Hall, MD.

Position: N 39° 08.034, W 76° 14.677

Total marina nights: 364

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

09/30/21 – Log Pond Marina in Havre de Grace, MD, to Rock Hall Landing Marina in Rock Hall, MD.

day 385

On Wednesday morning, 09/30/21, at 9:30 am, with the aid of our new friends in Havre de Grace, we threw off the lines from our tie at Log Pond Marina, on the far northern point of the Chesapeake Bay, and headed southward. Our destination on this day was Rock Hall Landing Marina, in the tiny harbor town of Rock Hall, MD. As forecast, our skies were clear and sunny, with accompanying cruising conditions of slightly ripply waters under a light breeze. We were both dressed in warmer attire this morning, as the temperatures were noticeably chillier here on this last day of September, as we cruised past Aberdeen Proving Ground and Turkey Point Lighthouse, MD.

Excellent weather and water conditions as we left Log Pond Marina in Havre de Grace, MD.
Some of the grand, waterfront homes along the banks of the northern Chesapeake Bay…

We passed by the mouth of the Sassafras River (this time to our port), which we’d traveled up several months ago to meet our friends, the Wehrles, at Sassafras Marina in Georgetown, MD. I’ve said it before, I know, but it bears repeating – the waters of the Chesapeake Bay are very BROWN, which is kind of a disappointment, when you’re used to the deep blues of the ocean (and especially the bright teal blue-greens of the waters surrounding the Florida Keys!)

We passed Meeks Point, MD, to our port, and Abbey Point, MD, to our starboard. This part of the Chesapeake appears sparsely populated, when viewed from the water. We were joined by lots of pleasure boats on the Bay, as it was both a perfect cruising AND sailing day, weather-wise.

Eventually, we approached Baltimore (on our starboard) which is located west of the Bay, up the Patapsco River, and just visible to us in the distance to our west. For awhile, we seemed to be on a collision course with Poole’s Island, in the center of the upper Chesapeake Bay.

Up ahead we saw the Chesapeake Bay Bridge again, this time to our southwest. We will arrive Rock Hall Landing Marina this afternoon, before we cross back underneath that bridge.

Views approaching Rock Hall Landing Marina in Rock Hall, MD….

We arrived at Rock Hall Landing Marina at 2:00 pm, and were directed to a wall tie-up on our starboard side. We were impressed with the nice condition of this marina and the beauty of the surrounding area. I was reminded again that Maryland is by far one of my favorite coastal areas on this adventure! Once Legacy was securely tied, plugged into power, and her crew showered, we walked next door to Waterman’s Crab House for early dinner, dining out on their deck next to the water, where we had a front-row seat for the sunset. Just off this deck was a rather rickety-looking dock finger that extended out into the marina about 30 feet to a small T-dock, where an imposing, 60-foot Sundancer power boat was tied, waiting for her crew to board. Along with the other dinner guests out on the deck, Steve and I sipped our cocktails and watched a large, boisterous group of clearly inebriated older men precariously traverse the narrow and very unstable dock finger from the deck out to the boat. Each of the gentlemen had a drink in hand, and displayed valiant efforts to keep from spilling those drinks, or – worse yet – toppling off of that swaying (unrailed) dock finger right into the marina water. Though it truly looked doubtful, all eight of those men managed to successfully wobble out the entire length of the dock finger and climb up onto that boat without mishap, which I found to be nothing short of miraculous. I could barely stop myself from standing and applauding, as the fully-boarded Sundancer roared to life, dropped its lines, and sped off from it’s tiny pier (no wake zone? WHAT no wake zone?). We thanked our lucky stars that we were not out on the water with that boat right then, considering its captain seemed to be just as tipsy as his passengers were! 😐

Views of Rock Hall Landing Marina…
The tiny Rock Hall Landing Marina office.
Legacy on her wall-tie at Rock Hall Landing Marina.
The marina pool was small and inviting, had the air not been just a bit too chilly for swimming.
I was surprised at how healthy and happy these mandevilla vines still looked, considering it was Fall in northern Maryland!
Our choice for cocktails and dinner on the water for 09/30/21.
While I didn’t get any pictures of our impromptu dinner entertainment that evening, I did manage to capture this amazing sunset. (This blog entry’s first prize winner, of course!)

As nice as it is, Rock Hall Landing Marina does not supply a courtesy car, and is located in an area remote enough to lack Uber and Lyft, and taxi service! Around 9 pm that evening, my sinusitis began to flare up onboard Legacy, then worsen into a bad coughing fit, and finally spiral down into a full-blown bronchial spasm (which included labored breathing and heightened anxiety on my part). By 10 pm (after the marina had long been closed and most inhabitants of the surrounding boats had already gone to bed), we began to entertain the thought of calling an ambulance to the nearest emergency room. Once again, the ugly reality of not having our own, personal land transportation reared it’s head. How long would it take an ambulance to even reach us? And if we DID call an ambulance, how would we get back to our boat once I was finished with treatment? We debated back and forth for about thirty minutes, until, after some mild sedation, my chest slowly began to relax, my rapid gasps for breath calmed, and I finally felt I’d be okay to sleep on the boat that night, rather than set-out for the ER. Whew!

Position: N 39° 08.034, W 76° 14.677

Distance traveled:  45 SM

Total distance traveled: 4844 SM

Total marina nights: 361

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

09/28/21 – 09/29/21 – Two Days in Havre de Grace, MD

Day 383 – 384

After learning which shops and restaurants were best in Havre de Grace from our pals at the marina last night, Steve and I spent much of Tuesday, 09/28/21, walking around the historic downtown area. I stopped into a kitschy little shop with wares straight out of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s called JoRetro, which I really enjoyed. We also wandered into a very large antique mall called Seneca Cannery. Even Steve found some interesting items in that place.

Scenes from JoRetro in Havre de Grace, MD. This was a fun shop that carried antiques (aka “vintage”, as its now referred to) and brand new productions made to look like old. I didn’t get pictures of them, but there were racks of newly-made 60s shifts and A-line dresses that really brought back memories.
Look at this Mid-Century living room set. 🙂 I loved those Havre de Grace map pillows, and would’ve purchased one if I’d had room for it on our boat… 🙁
Seeing these sets took me right back to my mom’s avocado-green kitchen from way back in the day.
As a child, I actually owned a round, clock radio like the bright orange one above, only mine was white.
This sign I found in JoRetro reminded me of myself!

Later on that day, we walked to highly-recommended River City Public House for dinner, especially since Tuesday nights are steak nights! We both enjoyed the vibe we felt in Havre de Grace, and were glad we’d decided to heed recommendations and stop there for a few days.

Murals are a BIG thing in Havre de Grace, and were everywhere we looked…
This mural celebrates Havre de Grace’s horse-racing history from back in the early to mid 1900s.
Our choice for dinner in Havre de Grace on Tuesday evening, 09/28/21. It was steak night, which made Steve happy. 🙂

Back aboard the boat, we could watch out the starboard window of Legacy’s salon and see the multiple bridges that cross the mouth of the Susquehanna River, where it meets the Chesapeake Bay. There was a bridge for automobiles, one for regular railroad cars, and another for the high-speed Amtrak passenger train, which seemed to pass every fifteen minutes. Whenever the Amtrak zoomed across its bridge, it made a sound just like rumbling thunder from an approaching storm. It took me the entire time we were there to remember I was hearing a train passing, and not impending inclement weather.

US Highway 40 bridge across the Susquehanna River in Havre de Grace, MD.
This shot also shows the railroad car bridge in the foreground, and yet another bridge in the far background. I found this area beautiful.

There is an historical trail in Havre de Grace, called the Lafayette Trail which uses ornate, brass markers embedded into the sidewalks at regular intervals, marking out a path through town that passes historical sites. There is an accompanying map that tells sight-seers who follow the trail all about each of these sites. The trail is reputed to be three miles from start to finish, so Steve was not interested in walking it, but I decided I’d give it a try on Wednesday, 09/29/21 – especially since the weather was perfect that day! Steve just scoffed and said he highly doubted I’d complete all three miles of the trail. I started off great gang-busters, map in hand, but very quickly found myself sidetracked into some of the many antique shops I encountered along the way – ha! Needless to say, I did not complete the trail, but walked to and from and inside so many shops, I think I probably actually did cover three miles, if not more!

One of the many plaques that mark the path of the historic Lafayette Trail, which winds for three miles, through Havre de Grace.
Monument to the General Marquis de Lafayette, who once graced Havre de Grace with his presence, back in 1825.
There are a handful of houses in Havre de Grace that were fortunate enough to somehow survive the destructive War of 1812, and are still standing today. They are each marked with plaques such as this one.
These two historic Havre de Grace homes were decked-out to the max for Halloween. 🙂
I loved this little home and told Steve I thought I could live there happily. This is one of the many restored homes in town, but there are also many brand new homes that are all designed and built to historic standards, per building code. I love seeing examples of that!
I was enamored with this sweetly-decorated side yard, and took this picture for posterity’s sake, as I might want to copy its design at my own home, once we purchase another one. 😉
I loved all the heavily-decorated front porches in Havre de Grace! Steve, not so much… (He just doesn’t understand kitsch…)
More scenes from around town…
This antique mall was so large, I could easily have spent several full days in there by the time I looked closely at every single item on display.
Other fun antique shops I patronized…

Later that same day, I found myself enjoying the beauty of McLhinney Memorial Park, underneath the bridges over the point where the Susquehanna River meets the Bay. This small but charming park is located right underneath the US Hwy 40 Bridge, and is named for one of Havre de Grace’s longtime, honored residents.

At McLlhinney Memorial Park, I learned about the very old Susquehanna Lower Ferry, which was used by many historical figures when traveling between the north and the south, WAY back in the day.
A view of Log Pond Marina. The chairs and fire-pit in the foreground are where we sat and chatted with new friends, the first night we arrived.
Legacy, at her tie-up at Log Pond Marina, in Havre de Grace, MD.
This blog post’s First Prize winner! (The birds were taking a break in this shot. 😉 )

Position: N 39° 32.678, W 76° 05.033

Total distance traveled: 4799 SM

Total marina nights: 360

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

09/27/21 – Delaware City Marina in Delaware City, DE, to Log Pond Marina in Havre de Grace, MD

Day 382

Since today would be a short travel day, Legacy didn’t leave her tie-up in Delaware City until 9:15 AM. We exited the Delaware Bay, and headed back down the C&D Canal (this time in the opposite direction), cruising underneath the Delaware Highway 9 bridge at the eastern end of the C&D, where we met a huge barge, loaded full of shipping containers. In the protected waters of the narrow canal, our cruising weather could not have been better; clear, sunny, low-humidity, and a forecast high of 80 degrees. SO nice!

Approaching the eastern end of the C&D Canal from the Delaware Bay, and the Delaware Highway 9 bridge we passed underneath.
We passed this heavily-loaded barge carrying a myriad of containers, stacked 4-high!
Passing several working tugboats that day reminded me that, just because we’re retired, doesn’t mean everyone else is!

We traveled the entire C&D Canal, once again passing St. Georges, DE, and Chesapeake City, MD, crossing the state line between Delaware and Maryland (obviously) before dumping out of the canal into the Elk River, in the northeastern Chesapeake Bay. Even though the weather conditions picked-up now and the waters became choppier (1-2 foot waves with some white-capping), it was great to be back cruising the Chesapeake! The winds out in the bay grew stronger and chillier, so I ran below to grab a light jacket. Fall had definitely arrived!

Passing by Chesapeake City, MD.
Lovely, historic building on the Elk River.

Eventually we turned northward and headed up into the northern tip of the Chesapeake Bay, toward Havre de Grace, MD, a highly-recommended stop and one we’d not had time to make on our journey northward, back in June. This part of the Bay was brand new territory for us and I liked it there because the bay is narrow enough here to see land on both sides of it as we cruised. I told Steve the northern-most Chesapeake Bay reminded me very much of Kentucky Lake on the Tennessee River, only the water in the Bay was much browner than Kentucky Lake. Almost a milk-chocolate color!

Views approaching Log Pond Marina in Havre de Grace, MD…

We arrived at Log Pond Marina, in Havre de Grace, MD, at 2:00 pm, where they tied us to a T-dock with a nice view of the harbor and nearby bridges. Brian and his wife, on the boat tied immediately adjacent to us, were more than kind to help us get Legacy tied-up, secured and plugged-up for her stay. The harbor and our marina was surrounded by lots of pretty condominiums, and of course lots of boats!

One of our views from Legacy’s flybridge where she was tied at Log Pond Marina.

After getting the scoop on the marina and surrounding area, we showered and walked up to the nearby Tidewater Grille, in downtown Havre de Grace, for a leisurely early dinner and beverages. We dined al fresco right on the water and enjoyed the gorgeous weather and view with our meal.

Our choice for dinner and drinks on Monday, late afternoon, 09/27/21, in Havre de Grace, MD.
Some of our lovely water views while dining al fresco at Tidewater Grille…

When we returned to the marina after dinner, a group of boaters were all sitting up at the head of our dock finger socializing. They invited us to come up and join them for a little while that evening. We learned a lot about Havre de Grace from that group, as many of them were either live-aboards there at the marina, or owned condos right there on the marina’s perimeter. Pretty much everywhere we go, we talk about someday perhaps retiring to that particular location. Havre de Grace was definitely one of those places, as it was lovely there, but then we remembered it gets COLD there in the winter, so… never mind. LOL!

Right beside our boat was this popular waterfowl hang-out spot, which was always covered with several different species of birds, for the entire time we spent at Log Pond Marina.
Yep – you guessed it! Here’s the first prize winning photo of this blog post!

Position: N 39° 32.678, W 76° 05.033

Distance traveled:  40 SM

Total distance traveled: 4799 SM

Total marina nights: 359

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28

09/26/21 – Another Day in Delaware City, DE

Day 381

Sunday morning, 09/26/21, dawned clear and sunny, although breezy. When we’d stopped here on our way up, we were disappointed that we missed a chance to ride the ferry across the Bay to tour historic Fort Delaware, so we fully intended to do that today. Fort Delaware was originally constructed between 1846 and 1868 on Pea Patch Island, New Castle County, Delaware, as a harbor defense facility. During the American Civil War, the Union used Fort Delaware as a prison for Confederate prisoners of war, political prisoners, federal convicts, and privateer officers. By 1900, the fort was part of a three-fort concept, the first forts of the Coast Defenses of Delaware, working closely with Fort Mott in Pennsville, NJ, and Fort DuPont in Delaware City, DE. The fort and the island currently belong to the Delaware Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Control (DNREC) and encompass a living history museum, located in Fort Delaware State Park.

Fort Delaware, on Pea Patch Island, as viewed from Delaware Bay.

Ferry tour boats were running that afternoon, but after some research, we found that face-masks would have to be worn the entire time, by all passengers and crew, so we made an executive decision to skip it. We had had ENOUGH of face-mask mandates!

We opted to walk around downtown Delaware City and people-watch, stopping at Crabby Dick’s again for another late lunch.

Position: N 39° 56.34.299, W 75° 35.411

Total marina nights: 357

Total nights at anchor: 23

09/25/21 – South Jersey Marina in Cape May, NJ, to Delaware City Marina in Delaware City, DE

Day 380

On Saturday morning, 09/25/21, we departed South Jersey Marina in Cape May, NJ, at 8:00 am. Our cruising conditions were fabulous, with calm, clear weather. Thanks once again to Captain Steve’s impeccable weather forecast monitoring abilities, the waters were mirror-smooth as we cruised the Cape May Canal, underneath the NJ I-365 bridge, and out into Delaware Bay. Our skies were perfectly clear, without one single cloud, and our waters in the Bay were close to perfect, with waves of only 1-2 feet. PERFECTO!

As we progressed out into the Delaware Bay (which can be quite treacherous, if encountered in less than perfect weather), we realized many other pleasure-boaters were taking full advantage of today’s conditions. Sail boats, power boats, and even other trawlers shared the Bay with its standard, commercial barge traffic. Radio chatter on Channel 16 was constant, and we heard one tugboat captain calling down a sailboat up ahead of us that was tacked on a collision course with that tugboat’s oncoming barge! 😐 The sailboat heeded the captain’s request, but instead of simply changing his tack to the opposite direction, he came to a full stop, dropped all of his sails, and continued slowly away from the barge’s path, now moving slowly, under engine-power only. Being former sail-boaters, we thought that reaction was a bit extreme, but then decided maybe that potential collision had frightened the sailboat captain into completely ending his sailing for the day!

Not long after this same tugboat captain had admonished the sailboat, we realized he was calling us down, (he was being a bit of a drama queen), as well, when we heard our boat name being hailed on Channel 16. We were at least two miles ahead of the barge, traveling at a faster speed, and were paying special attention in respect to the barge’s path, so Legacy’s autopilot was set to pass well ahead of and out of the barge’s way, but apparently the tugboat captain did not share our view, as he called for us to veer our boat in another direction asap. Steve and I both felt the tugboat captain was being far overly-cautious. We decided that what he was seeing was our AIS bearing line crossing his bearing line. What he didn’t realize was that our auto pilot was slowly moving us out of his path, and we were correcting this perceived issue slowly but surely. We decided that captain had probably experienced a close-call with a pleasure boat in the past, and so now was hyper-vigilant, but we certainly understood (and appreciated) his concern! As we continued getting farther and farther from this barge, we could hear him continuously calling out to other boaters, but he was no longer any concern of ours.

We passed the Hope Creek Generating Station as we cruised northward on the Delaware Bay.

We reached Delaware City Marina that afternoon at 1:30 pm, after encountering little to no current entering the sometimes dicey Delaware City Branch. Score! Having previously stayed at this kitschy little marina on our way up, we remembered that the marina staff prefers for boats to enter the branch bow-first, switch engines to idle, and then allow the dock-hands to manhandle Legacy all the way round in the opposite direction, using only her lines, rather than risking a possible collision between the boat and the marina’s docks. Even though there was no current, we were fine with their preference, as it made things much easier for Captain Steve!

Once secured, settled, and showered, we jumped off the boat and walked almost a full mile up to Crabby Dick’s for an early dinner. We elected to eat outside, even though the late afternoon air was a bit on the chilly side. The food at Crabby Dick’s was still as good as we remembered it, so we relaxed and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves after a smooth, but exciting day crossing the Delaware Bay.

I was tickled to see the kitschy Delaware City Marina flowerbeds decorated for Fall, this time through. 🙂
This gorgeous red sedum reminded me of that I had planted in our former backyard in Franklin, TN.

Position: N 39° 56.34.299, W 75° 35.411

Distance traveled:  61 SM

Total distance traveled: 4758 SM

Total marina nights: 356

Total nights at anchor: 23

Locks today: 0

Locks Total:  28